Back on the (Cold) Trail

Sleeping bag liner? Nah, shouldn’t need it.

Insulated gloves? No way, overkill.

Base layer? Don’t want to carry the weight.

My first night back on the Appalachian Trail, March 18, it became apparent I had erred. I hiked 10 miles from a rural trailhead at Jennings Creek, about 30 miles north of Roanoke, Va. The hiking was awesome all day, around mid-40s and sunny. I stopped at a shelter named Bobblet’s Gap and humped a quarter-mile down switchbacks to the structure. It was around 5 p.m. when I arrived and the temperature was dropping fast. It wouldn’t have been too bad except for the icy wind, which picked up intensity through the night.

I bundled up, confident in my 20-degree sleeping bag’s ability to withstand the cold assault. I’d slept in cold weather before.

But not like this. Not with this freezing wind buffeting my thin layer of nylon. Not exposed on the slatted wood floor of a three-walled shelter with nothing holding off the wind. And not without having prepared for freezing weather with base layer, sleeping bag liner and, sometimes, insulated gloves.

At around midnight, I was remembering my errant rejections of those cold-weather supplies as the temperature dropped below 20 and seeped into my sleeping bag. My double-socked feet were the first to let me know this would be a fitful night as I struggled fruitlessly to get them warm and comfortable. Then I felt the frigid draft on my back every time I turned on one side as it snuck in the open top of my sleeping bag and wheedled down lower and lower like a snake seeking warmth. Eventually, the shivering began. I restrained myself from checking my watch every few minutes to see if this interminable night was working its way toward morning sun.

It wasn’t.

Move or Stay?

I considered getting up, packing my things in the midnight dark and start hiking again. It probably would have been the prudent thing to do. And if it were any colder and if I were not able to snag a few moments of sleep here and there I would have opted for that dire choice.

Instead, I hunkered tighter from the cold, curling into an ever tighter fetal ball and waited it out. Morning would come. Eventually.

Welcome back to the Appalachian Trail.

Smart Packing

Packing for a backpacking trip is an art in itself. It’s a fine balance between stripping down your list to the barest of essentials and anticipating must-haves and levels of comfort.

Some thru-hikers prance down the trail with a pack weighing only 12 or 15 pounds, equipped only with a plastic tarp for shelter, no changes of clothes and a handful of energy bars. I admire them but it’s not for me. I’m not the heaviest of packers, but I insist on an enclosed shelter like a tent of hammock, a sleeping bag and things like rain gear, eyeglasses and actual meals.

But when I’d set the date for my return to the AT, I checked weather forecasts for the central Virginia region I’d be returning to, and they looked reasonable. Lows in the 30s, highs in the 50s. Sounded quite ideal for hiking.

My main error was not considering the elevation. A rookie mistake that I’ve sufficiently berated myself for. My shelter mate that night, trail named Cayenne, told me about a site named ATweather.org. Plug in the shelter you’re aiming for and it’ll give you the weather forecast at that location, rather than, uselessly, down in the towns 3,000 feet below.

That would have been good to have when I was packing. I might have thrown in my sleeping bag liner. Definitely would have packed my base layer. That surely would have yielded me a better night’s sleep.

Tough Morning

As long and uncomfortable as the night at Bobblet’s Gap was, the morning was even more intense.

Cayenne, a hardy Vermonter, rose at 5 a.m., well before daylight, and headed out into the dark. He’d been hiking since January and was equipped for the cold.

That left me alone in the shelter, deep down in the gap where, even as the sun rose above, its rays would not penetrate into this gully.

Sunset at Fullhardt Knob.

The most mundane of morning chores were a quick dash out and back into the sleeping bag to warm frozen hands. Brushing teeth. Retrieving water. Making breakfast. Each time, back inside the sleeping bag to recover. I was dreading the moment when I’d have to pack up the sleeping bag, my only source of refuge.

To make matters worse, all my water had frozen. No morning tea. And I’m a cold-soaker, meaning I don’t carry a stove to heat up water for meals. Eating my cold-soaked oatmeal was like chomping ice.

MacGuyver Time

Okay, I was caught off guard on my return to the trail. Made rookie mistakes. I certainly should have put a bottle or two of water inside my sleeping bag. That would have saved me from dehydration in the morning.

By the time I departed and climbed back up out of Bobblet’s Gap and the AT, it was mid-morning. At least I was moving, and my hands would thaw before long.

I climbed and built heat, the sun warmed the trail and gradually my layers came off. A pleasant hiking day ensued, for 13.5 miles, to a mountaintop shelter named Fullhardt Knob.

I took a sunset picture and checked the forecast, properly this time, on ATweather.org. Another frigid night, down in the low 20s.

I placed two water bottles inside my sleeping bag, along with my gloves. A childhood fan of the TV show MacGuyver (the old one, haven’t seen the new one), I considered everything at my disposal. I stuffed my tent rain fly inside my sleeping bag to simulate a liner. I zipped myself up inside my tent. I put on every layer of clothing I had, including rain gear. And though my sleeping bag zipper chose to stop working and wouldn’t close up at about midnight, I adjusted and slept restfully for nearly nine hours.

The forecast for the coming week looks perfect with highs in the 60s and lows in the 30s and 40s. I survived the freeze.

Welcome back to the trail.

Riding the Storm Out – An Afternoon Snowstorm Cycle Adventure

bike in a snowy field

January 29, 2022

It wasn’t the storm it was forecast to be, but the snow was falling all day – albeit not heavy, sticky flakes – the temperature was in the teens and the wind was blowing 30-mph gusts.

In others words, a perfect day for a bike ride.

The thermometer read 12 degrees, but my online weather chart said it felt like 10 below. So today’s ride would require the full-on gear treatment: top and bottom base layer, five tech over layers, insulated ski gloves, balaclava, two pairs of wool socks, goggles for the eyes and a puffy coat.

Bridge over the Oxbow inlet

Suited up, I headed out toward the Oxbow inlet. Riding was tricky from the start. Roads weren’t yet plowed and tire tracks weren’t any help. All they did was cover the icy patches underneath, so that if you followed them your tires would get jerked around as the icy tracks crossed. Much better was the untrammeled sides of the road with a fresh, four-inch layer of snow.

I nearly toppled over any number of times as I hit hidden ice patches, but managed to stay upright for the two-and-a-half-hour ride.

Slow Ride

I’d already accepted that today’s ride was going to be relatively slow, and that was fine. Paramount for me was staying warm, not how much mileage I would cover.

Staying warm in the sub-zero wind worked out fine once I got working, and pushing tires through the snow provided a good workout. My toes froze but otherwise I was warm head to feet.

The great thing about riding amid a storm is you have the roads almost all to yourself. Very few cars venture out in these conditions, nor should they. Rather, the few people you meet in the middle of a snowstorm are cross-country skiers, some snowmobilers and a few dog walkers.

Seeking Desolation

Once I got out in it, and started having fun, I decided to extend my planned ride and followed the same route I’d ridden a few weeks ago during a dawn ice ride. Through the back roads of the Northampton meadows and down into the isolated field roads running along the Connecticut River.

It’s one of my favorite places to ride in the winter because it’s so desolate and barren. I would have liked to have stopped more and appreciated the desolation and stillness, but it was simply too cold to remain standing in it for long without moving. Out there in the fields the wind gusts and billows freely and swipes at anything in its path. Just stopping for a minute for a drink of water, I could feel the freezing wind eating right through all my layers. Time to move.

I rode up into Northampton and navigated a few empty residential streets back to the rail trail bike path. Even that wasn’t easy riding as it was covered in drifting snow and bumpy with iced footprints.

I worked my way back down to the meadows behind South Street, back past the Oxbow and Arcadia, up to the Manhan bike path and around toward home.

Riding the storm out. It’s the perfect – and different – way to enjoy the snow.

An Early Morning Ice Ride

January 13, 2022

It’s never easy getting up and out on a cold, dark January morning. Even harder if it’s by choice, not of necessity. I had taken the day off and could have slept in. What am I doing up before the sun, I kept asking myself as I sipped a hot green tea.

Twenty minutes later, all the doubt had vanished as I watched the sun peek up behind Mount Tom and cast a beam of light across the Oxbow perfectly aligned with where I stood on its bank.

A morning icy bike ride had been a good idea after all on this mid-January morning. I crossed the blocked off bridge at Old Springfield Road, over the Oxbow, and rode into the Northampton meadows, taking care to steer into the few frozen dirt patches I could find, for the traction.

Most of these back roads were covered in hard caked snow and slick ice, tricky for riding. Worse, car and truck tire grooves had been ridged into the surface so that a bike path could be yanked in any direction at any time by the hardened ice. It was impossible to trust what you’re riding on.

I rode slowly past the Oxbow Marina and toward the the dirt and gravel Potash Road. Almost no one in the Meadows this cold morning, which lent it a mystical, far away nature, as if I had traveled a long distance to get here. I was relieved nobody was there to see me go down on the back woodsy Manhan Road. The iced tire groove I had been following crossed with another. My bike tire decided on a different path than the one I intended. The bike won, its front tire jerking to the right. I didn’t adjust quickly enough and rolled onto my shoulder, almost chuckling, “you finally got me.”

I continued riding until I popped out on Pleasant Street just above the bowling alley. I worked my way across the street and took a right on Hockanum Road to continue through the meadows, this time on the other side of Route 91. I took a left on Nook Road and rode out into the middle of the fields, where there’s a barren intersection with Valley Field Road. I know these roads well, having run and walked them in warmer weather. But again, in mid-winter, completely alone at this crossroad amid the dormant fields that sweep down to the Connecticut River and over to the Northampton Airfield, it feels surreal and exposed. Like a desert. Except cold. Too cold to stand for very long marveling at the exquisitely still isolation.

I moved on. Past the airport, under Route 91 on Old Ferry Road, left on Cross Path Road over to Ventures Field to begin making my way back home. Pleasant Street to the bike path, through downtown, behind Smith College and along Route 5 and 10. The path was crusty with ice and pocked with boot prints, making for a rough mile before the bridge over Route 5 and 10.

From there, the path cleared, where sunshine had done its job melting away ice the day before. Final smooth mile.

The perfect way to start the day, especially when you don’t have to.