Day 4, 58 miles, Middlesex, NJ, to Philadelphia
Here’s something I love about riding bike long distance: You see everything like you can’t in a car. You feel the place under your tires, every single bump, rise and depression. You hear the sounds, of bugs and birds and people, cars and machinery. You smell the smells, of wild vegetation, cooking meat and oil, people living together, must and rot, and of course, exhaust, lots of exhaust.
Your senses are filled with the space through which you’re rolling.
Today, Day 4 of my 70 day xUS bike tour, was filled with sensory contrasts. I rolled out of Middlesex, NJ, about 9 a.m. and traversed some beautiful rural roads (who knew? Jersey) for a couple hours before climbing up into Princeton. This is the consummate American privilege, blue blood town, similar to Cambridge, MA, Hanover, NH, and some other high brow college towns. Grand, spectacular houses and buildings, quaint coffee and sushi shops, manicured gardens and lawns. I stopped for a tea at Small World Coffee.
I rode out of Princeton and not half an hour later I’m rolling through the streets of Trenton, NJ. These two towns are such a study in contrast it’s jarring to nearly juxtapose them. One is glitz, the other is pure grit. Princeton dresses itself up for the grand ball while Trenton is getting all slutty for a back alley dirty dancing rave.
I came away from the experience without a preference for either, rather an appreciation for what each contrasting town offered. Princeton is nice, cushy. But Trenton is real, man.
My ride next led to another wonderful bike path, the Delaware and Raritan Canal towpath.
I’ve been getting lucky with some nice bike paths, I hope it continues once I’m out of the northeast. This one is gorgeous, with these exquisite trees (not sure what they are, they looked like lilacs) reflected in the water, long, peaceful backwoods stretches with no traffic, and lots of wildlife. I watched a spectacular crane flying along the canal. And a couple times, stopped to watch irresistible baby geese waddling behind their parents. (View a brief video on Insta.)
After nearly 20 miles of loving the Delaware and Raritan Canal towpath, I got dumped out onto Route 13 heading into Philadelphia. Culture shock. I was thankful for the huge shoulder to ride on because traffic was explosive and constant. Trucks, delivery vans, motorcycles, construction vehicles, all passing by at top speed. Lots of highway entrances/exits, always a moment for high alert and potential pissed off drivers as they wait for me to cross the entrance lane so they can hurry onto the highway.
The last 10 miles today was city riding. Philadelphia does a decent job of painting in a bike lane, for that I was thankful. But I swear I was hitting every red light and there are a lot of them. Most the time I could slow down and ride through but had to stop and wait many times. Frustrating. (Btw, for those of you who bristle when you see a cyclist riding through red lights, consider: it takes some good momentum to start up a bike – let alone one with 35 extra lbs. – from a complete stop. Stopping, unclipping your shoes from the pedal locks and waiting for the light to turn, then push starting, clipping shoes back in and ramping up to speed takes a lot of energy and time. I know running red lights breaks traffic rules and can be unsafe. But please hop on a bike and ride through a city to see what it’s like before heckling the next biker you seeing doing this. My PSA for the day.)
After 4 straight riding days averaging 68 miles/day, it’s time for a day’s rest in the City of Brotherly Love. By “rest,” I mean “work.”